Elaia by Cyma is the newest destination restaurant in Tagaytay. Jeeves de Veyra

TAGAYTAY -- Chef Robby Goco of Cyma fame has brought his Greek culinary repertoire to Tagaytay with the opening of Elaia by Cyma.

Located along Buenavista Boulevard on the Tagaytay-Silang border that’s home to many destination dining restaurants, Elaia by Cyma is like a spa cooled by natural air-conditioning of the Cavite highlands. The cool woody interiors extend to the back outdoor areas with the occasional glyph on the wall to give the whole space a Grecian feel.

The cool woody interiors. Jeeves de Veyra 

The restaurant has an outdoor area at the back. Jeeves de Veyra 

“Elaia” means olive and it’s the primary ingredient in olive oil, which, according to Chef Robby, is one of the foundation ingredients of Greek cuisine.

The chef takes Greek cuisine very seriously. And for being a staunch advocate of it, he was recognized by the Business Review of Greece during the Famous Greek Gastronomy Awards.

Chef Robby Goco and wife Aliza Apostol Goco. Jeeves de Veyra 

On differentiating the concepts. Cyma is more city-like, urban Greek cuisine as served in Athens. Souv is Cyma’s sophisticated younger sister who’s traveled abroad and came back now using global ingredients like quinoa. Elaia is going back to how it is in the province up in the mountains of Northern Greece.

“This is mountain Greek. This is like going back to its roots. As if there's a Greek grandmother cooking at the back,” he said.

Ladera. Jeeves de Veyra 

If there’s a dish that represents the concept, it would be the ladera of which the fasolakia is an example. Vegetables, green beans in this case, are cooked low and slow simmering in extra virgin olive oil. The various ladera options make up the side dishes in the restaurant and one of these automatically come with any of the main entrees.

Chef Robby said that this location got him closer to “the source.” Through a network of nearby farms, the chef is able to source the freshest vegetables, not only for Elaia, but for the rest of his restaurants as well. If they have an excess supply, they’re sold at the country store out in front.In an interview during Chef Robby’s Green Pasture days, I can’t forget him saying that “that the more colorful food is, the healthier it is.” Those colors are only naturally possible with vegetables like the ones in Elaia’s Greek Salad where the juicy freshness of each and every ingredient is tasted in every bit.

Dakos. Jeeves de Veyra 

Chef Robby is particularly happy with the tomatoes. This is the star ingredient in Elaia’s version of Dakos, rated the No. 1 salad in the world by Taste Atlas. It just comes with the bright acidity from the tomatoes and the green pepper seep into the chunks of rustic bread.

Green Tagaytay Salad. Jeeves de Veyra 

The menu is also a result of cooking for longevity, perhaps because a many retirees have called the surrounding areas home. Elaia is a haven for vegetarians with the salad options available. In contrast to the multi-colored dishes, the Tagaytay Green Salad is deceptively boring. It’s just green… But hidden within the mixed greens tossed with yuzu vinaigrette are herbs, lime, and muscat grapes which makes this a refreshing must-order.

Seafood Elaia. Jeeves de Veyra 

The Seafood Elaia is yet another example of what looks like a simple dish with great execution. This is really just Seafood Aglio y Olio. But the mussels, squid, shrimp, and clams were just right above the extra virgin olive oil with the spaghetti still al dente even after the whole table had its share of photo taking. Chef Robby said that there will be a seafood-centric addition to his Greek concepts soon and this may have been a preview of what’s to come.

Kreatopita. Jeeves de Veyra 

Making phyllo pastry from scratch in-house is no joke. The fragile crunchy crust I got it in their pies makes it worth it. They do have the classic spinach-filled spanakopita as an appetizer. To really try this out, I recommend the Kreatopita, a much more filling pie with red-wine braised beef. And yes, Elaia also has entrees for those looking for meatier fare.

Lamb isn’t the Filipino’s protein of choice, not only because it’s not as accessible but many associate it with that gamey “anggo” usually from lamb that’s not properly cooked. Elaia, and Chef Robby’s other restaurants, are great places to rediscover this underrated meat. The Ami Ito Fourno (roast lamb) just breaks apart with a touch of the fork. As one of Meat & Livestock Australia’s global “Lambassadors,” he definitely knows his way around this underrated meat.

It seems that Chef Robby will be very busy for the foreseeable future. Besides the aforementioned Greek seafood-centric concept, he also has his Cajun restaurant Rob's in Newport World Resort. He will also be reopening Cangrejos Locos, famous for its 10-minute paellas, and Vigan smokehouse Calle Brewery soon.

Elaia by Cyma is lcoated along Buenavista Avenue in Silang, Cavite and is open Monday to Thursday (11 a.m. to 8 p.m.) and Friday to Sunday (11 a.m. to 9 p.m.) Reservations are highly recommended.