Hidden San Juan Spot Reimagines New American Cuisine

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Hidden San Juan Spot Reimagines New American Cuisine

Danah Gutierrez

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Updated Oct 28, 2024 04:07 PM PHT

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Who knew that a small, unassuming office building in San Juan, Manila would house one of the newest, and fanciest fine-dining resto bars in Manila? A foodie friend (whose palate and recommendations I highly trust), recently shared an exceptional dinner experience at Seva, just a few blocks away from my house. Located at J. Abad Street, I’ve been seeing their signage for quite a while and have always been intrigued. After checking them out on Instagram and hearing my friend’s positive reviews and raves, I just knew I had to book a reservation.



Seva is the hottest fine dining spot in San Juan Danah Gutierrez

I was surprised at how intentional Seva was with the whole flow of their guests' experience. Upon arrival, we were promptly asked by their security if we were heading to Seva, and got assisted to the elevator straight away. At the door is their head of security, a lean, looker of a man who warmly greeted and opened the door for us. Moving from out to in was a visual treat. The ambiance instantly took me back to swanky restaurants from my travels, like The Rover in Sydney, or Weekend in Cebu. The space exuded modern sexiness with straight lines, sleek furniture, backlit panels and shelves with tasteful decor, like a sultry bachelor’s pad. Framed artworks from Patrick De Veyra added color and stories to the walls. The bar was a great focal point by the entrance. It sets the vibe of what’s to come. It was hard to imagine that it was once an all-white office space lined with desks lit by fluorescent bulbs. The transformation made the place unrecognizable.


We were welcomed by Jonah Chantong, one of the masterminds behind the gastronomy concept. He’s young and charming, easy to approach and pleasant. He led us to our seats and placed a bag bin under our table. I was impressed. It’s these simple details that make the whole experience more comfortable. I always disliked having to tuck my bag in my seat as I ate, or use another chair for it. It’s just an extra step that many miss, but makes a lot of difference. They know what they’re doing, as this isn’t their first rodeo anyway. Together with his then-and-now business partner, Neil Dy, they have been in the food industry for years now. With their penchant for travel and worldly luxuries, they’ve obviously observed and picked up best practices from all over.



Modern interiors jazz up the place Danah Gutierrez

We were handed the menu and I liked that it just had the right items on it, not too many that takes you to the edge of analysis paralysis. It had a good curation of dishes—from interesting entrees (12) to the classic mains (9) and for desserts, they only had two. As for the drinks, that’s where they splurged, from original cocktail concoctions to an extensive wine list, this place is serious about serving proper libations.

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L-R: ahi tuna tartare, watermelon sour, corn ribs, pb&j amaretto sour Danah Gutierrez

Whetting the appetite

To tease our palates, we started with their popular Corn Ribs (P290). Taking my cue from the original carnivorous inspiration, I ate it like how I would eat actual pork ribs. The whole idea is there, too. You use your hands to munch on the ears (meat) without consuming the core (rib). The savory cream sauce (BBQ sauce) is where you dip it for more flavor and texture. It’s like an elevated elote garnished with fresh cilantro and grana padano, and I absolutely think it was brilliantly done.


Corn Ribs Danah Gutierrez

The next one we tried is their Hot Crab Dip (P590), served with fresh bread. The blue crab and mozzarella fresca paste is deliciously creamy and packed with seafood umami, while the fried leeks add a crisp bite.


Hot Crab Dip Danah Gutierrez

Another seafood-based starter is the Ahi Tuna Tartare (P420). Made with succulent and fresh raw tuna cubes, the yuzu ponzu adds a Japanese flavor to the snack. The spicy aioli ties all the ingredients together, and put onto a salty crisp that just cohesively gives you all types of mouth-feel. Lastly, we had to try the Charcuterie (P350), a small slice of bread with prosciutto, brie, and truffle honey. It’s a good full bite of all my grazing faves.


Charcuterie Danah Gutierrez

Happy hour begins

Along with the starters, we jumped right into happy hour. I heard their cocktails are top-tier, so we had to do a taste test. Being self-proclaimed cocktail connoisseurs, we just had to! After glasses here and there, here are my top 3:


PB&J Amaretto Sour Danah Gutierrez

PB&J Amaretto Sour

It’s like they blended all the molecular bits that make up the perfect peanut butter and jelly sandwich and infused it into almond liqueur. First sip and I was mind blown. It’s sweet, nutty, and tarte with the grape jelly flavor. The froth up top adds a nice smoothness. It could be considered a dessert drink, but given how balanced all the ingredients are, I’d encourage you with another order (or 2).

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Parmesan Apple Sour  Danah Gutierrez

Parmesan Apple Sour

A strong contender with my first choice, this butter-washed vodka-based cocktail is nothing but heavenly. A concoction of apple juice, lime, and caramelized butter, loving this drink is effortless. The notes of caramel and fruits are blended so harmoniously, and the shaved parmigiano reggiano adds a beautiful and mildly savory, cheesy finish. To say my sister loved this drink is an understatement. Let’s not count the glasses we had with this one.


Basil & Coconut Danah Gutierrez

Basil & Coconut

The strongest and booziest cocktail on their menu. It’s clean, crisp, and sharp. It’s the perfect mixture of basil gin, cocchi americano, with toasted coconut and leek oil. With the main ingredient being the popular herb, it’s like sipping on hard pesto liqueur. It’s an enjoyable long drink, and according to the owners, it’s a big hit among the tito crowd.


Octopus Danah Gutierrez

Meating the mains

Now for the big plates, we first tried the Octopus (P700). Cooked to a tender perfection, the tentacle is served with chermoula. Chermoula is a marinade and sauce popular in Algerian, Libyan, Moroccan, and Tunisian cuisine. It's traditionally used to add flavor to fish and seafood, but it works great on other meats or veggies, too. Think of it as a North African version of chimichurri. With bright flavors from fresh herbs, lemon, ginger, and red pepper flakes, chermoula is quite a match for this octo-main, with gazpacho verde and bits of local chorizo for added meatiness.


Lamb Danah Gutierrez

As lamb lovers, we’re happy to see this on their menu. Their Lamb (P1700) was just alright, a tad bit insufficient on the tender scale, but packed with flavors. It’s served medium with charred parts, but I could only hope it was cooked more evenly. The mint, tomato confit, and greek yogurt added dimension and aesthetic to the solid meat dish. It’s just okay. Good thing what the lamb lacked, the steak made up for.


Prime Ribeye with a side of Steak Rice Danah Gutierrez

The star of the whole menu has got to be their Prime Ribeye (P5500). We requested the 600g meat to be cooked medium. This perfect medium steak is juicy, tender, and cooked to an even pinkness throughout the center, with just a hint of red. It has a slightly firm but still tender texture, allowing the juices to flow as you cut into it. The outside boasts a beautifully caramelized, well-browned crust, created from a good sear that locks in the steak's natural flavors. It’s served with steak rice, where the rice was fried into the beef’s drippings with a bit of seasoning and crunchy steak bits. The steak was seasoned so thoroughly, our carnivorous palates danced with delight as we consumed this dish. We paired it with their Gem Salad (P490) and Spicy Vodka Rigatoni (P850).

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Spicy vodka rigatoni Danah Gutierrez

Ending on a sweet note

To finish our whole Seva dining experience, we tried their two desserts. The crème brûlée (P320) and Bee’s Knees (P300).


Crème brûlée Danah Gutierrez

As a lover of all things crème brûlée, this was an instant hit. It's a French dessert done right, but flavored with floral notes due to the infusion of lavender. It’s both delicate and delicious, with hints of bitterness from the caramelized burnt sugar glass. I loved it. But not as much as I loved Bee’s Knees!


Bee’s Knees Danah Gutierrez

Borrowing the words from Chef Anh Luu, it’s true what she said, “Dessert is not a meal; it’s a moment,' and Bee’s Knees was surely a memorable one. One of my favorite fruits, the passionfruit, has pulps that are juicy and tangy, offering a sweet-tart flavor profile that's both refreshing and exotic. The aroma is fragrant, with floral and citrus notes, making it enticing! I was extra delighted that they were able to make a real smooth ice cream out of it. The shards of meringue was a nice touch; it makes guests spoon them out of the way to find out what’s underneath, teasing their curiosity, then satisfying it at the first scoop. It ends the meal with novelty, sophistication, and pleasantly fruity sweetness. It was the right moment for the night’s end.


Needless to say, the power couple behind the kitchen (Neil and his fiance, Amanda Guzman Hao) have been disciplined and sharpened by their passion for gastronomy, despite not having any culinary education background. I appreciate how candid and humble they are because of it, even kidding about how some of these dishes have gone through many iterations until they finally perfected them. The ingredients they use are nowhere near unfamiliar, but their technique and flavor profiles make Seva a big gamechanger in the San Juan food scene. The service was almost perfectly seamless, with well-prepared dishes that rank high in taste and presentation.

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As the lights dimmed and the staff started hustling and bustling for the second seating crowd, I found myself beaming with joy. As we clink our glasses and enjoy our sisterly company, I felt like we were celebrating something, perhaps we were celebrating life itself. I suppose that’s the enchantment of Seva, because really, we just wanted to eat good on a random Wednesday evening. At Seva, glimmers of moments are magically magnified.


Seva | 2F LYH Building, 714 Jose Abad Santos Street, Little Baguio, San Juan | Website: sevadining.ph | Instagram: @seva.dining | Facebook: @sevadining.


Lead photos: Seva Dining


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