There are very few meals that can leave me speechless, and yet one rainy Saturday night, I was left searching for words.

iai is the latest restaurant by husband-and-wife duo Chef Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell, offering a unique dining experience that blends traditional Japanese techniques with Chef Bruce's distinctive instinct-driven approach to food.

Chef Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell Ching Dee

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Iai is a modern sushi kappo restaurant Ching Dee

The restaurant’s name, Iai, draws inspiration from Iaido, a traditional Japanese art of drawing, cutting, and resheathing the katana or sword. This concept perfectly reflects the spontaneity and discipline that Chef Bruce brings to his cooking — always sharpening his skills much like you do a sword.

iai draws inspiration from Iaido, a type of Japanese martial arts Ching Dee

'Iai is basically short for Iaido, which is a kind of Japanese martial art that’s all about instinct, keen responsiveness, and the initial draw of the sword. It’s very much representative of Bruce’s style,' Jae explains.

After years of honing his skills at his previous restaurants, especially Mecha Uma, Chef Bruce has developed a cooking discipline that relies heavily on instinct and spontaneity, making every dish a reflection of his journey in the kitchen.

Every dish reflects the spontaneity and discipline Ching Dee

At the heart of Iai’s menu are two types of omakase offerings, a Japanese term that translates to 'I leave it up to you.' Omakase allows the chef to choose all the dishes and ingredients served, and at Iai, these courses are designed to vary frequently depending on seasonality, ingredient availability, and Chef Bruce's spontaneous style of cooking.

iai’s main offering, the Sushi Omakase begins with six to eight Otsumami (seasonal appetizers), followed by the centerpiece of the meal, the glorious Nigiri course, featuring five to seven pieces of sushi, each prepared right in front of you (if you’re seated at the expansive Acacia bar). A meat course and dessert round off the dining experience. This option is available at the chef’s counter, where diners can interact directly with Chef Bruce, as well as in the private dining room for a more intimate experience. Limited seatings are also available at the main dining tables.

Choose between two kinds of omakase menus Ching Dee

For those looking for a shorter and more casual dining experience, iai offers the Kappo Omakase, a five-course meal that showcases the artistry of kappo cuisine, which sits between the formality of a traditional kaiseki and the laid-back nature of an izakaya. This menu does not include sushi and is only available in the main dining area.

The dining experience at Iai strikes a balance between fine dining and casual comfort, which is exactly what the couple wanted to achieve for this new venture.

Bruce and his team showcase the artistry of kappo cuisine Ching Dee

'We were quite intentional with what we wanted to do here at Iai, which is to make a space that’s more welcoming and cozier than Bruce’s previous restaurant,' Jae shares. This intention is evident in every detail of the restaurant, from the materials used (the attention to detail and the magnitude of artistry involved in building iai deserves a story of its own) to the level of interaction guests have with Chef Bruce himself. Whether seated at the counter, watching him prepare each course, or at the tables enjoying a more relaxed meal with a group, diners are immersed in the chef’s very own interpretation of Japanese cuisine.

Jae Pickrell created the exquisite restaurant as the perfect stage for Rickett's cuisine Ching Dee

Every corner of Iai is infused with elements that honor craftsmanship Ching Dee

Chef Bruce’s cooking philosophy centers on flexibility and spontaneity, with the menu evolving based on the freshest ingredients available each day. 'Iai is all about responding to what you have in front of you,' Bruce says. 'It’s like martial arts. You practice and practice, so that when the time comes, you know exactly how to respond.' This focus on instinct and adaptability means that no two dining experiences are exactly alike, and guests can expect a new culinary journey with each visit.

Beyond the food, the space itself is a reflection of the couple’s collaborative process. Jae, with her meticulous eye for design, has infused every corner of Iai with elements that honor craftsmanship. From the smoked bamboo chopsticks from Japan to the banana laminate walls from a local artist, each piece tells a story of artistry and deep understanding of what they want. 'Everything we do here is very intentional,' Jae explains. 'Bruce honors what we built here through the food he creates, and I honor it through the space.”

Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell at Iai Ching Dee

Iai is more than just a restaurant — it’s an experience that immerses guests in a world where food, art, and instinct collide. For Bruce and Jae, it’s a space that not only showcases Bruce’s culinary skills but also embodies the spirit of their shared journey. As Jae sums it up, 'Iai is a reflection of us. It’s a place where Bruce’s creativity and discipline can thrive, and where guests can feel at home while enjoying something truly special.'

If you’re looking for an exclusive dining experience that’s as thoughtful as it is delicious, Iai offers a unique blend of Japanese culinary tradition and modern creativity, where each meal is an exploration of flavor, technique, and craftsmanship.

Otsumami: Clam Ceviche & Squash Tart - A picture-perfect bite that tastes as good as it looks. A fresh and creamy start to a promising menu. The subtle briny flavor of the clam works well with tart flavors, while the squash lends a bit of sweetness for balance.Ching Dee

Oyster Croustade, Cucumber, Oyster Cream - Ever had cucumber “ketchup” before? It gives a wonderful freshness to the oyster. Pop it all in one bite for maximum textural experience. Ching Dee

Iwashi Pan  - Imagine the perfect sliver of Japanese Sardine — silky, smooth, with a hint of pleasant bitterness — on top of crispy deep-fried shokupan (Japanese milk bread). The contrast of flavors and textures is a masterpiece in a single bite.Ching Dee

Foie Gras, Rhubarb, Black Sesame Tuile - This dish is a callback to Mecha Uma, where Chef Bruce harnessed the intoxicating earthiness of foie gras. For iai, he paired it perfectly with crisp and delicate black sesame tuile and pieces of sweet rhubarb stems. Ching Dee

Chawanmushi, Abalone, Ikura, Hokkaido Uni - At iai, you’ll be pleased to know they cure their own Ikura, which they then use to give the sublime Chawanmushi a delightful (and literal) pop of flavor. The perfectly cooked Abalone (neither limp nor rubbery) adds another layer of texture to keep every bite interesting, while the Hokkaido Uni adds that distinct oceanic flavor to remind you that Chef Bruce indeed is a master of seafood. Ching Dee

Taro Puff, Red Snail, Bell Pepper, Coconut Milk - Inspired by Tiyula Itum, a dish they enjoyed during their trip to Basilan, this became an instant fave as well. This single bite was served together with the Chawanmushi, a genius move that takes into consideration the balance between silky smooth textures of the chawanmushi, delicate flavors of the custard and uni, the light yet crunchy exterior of the puff, and the unique bold flavors of red snails and burnt coconut. Ching Dee

Sakana: Samagarei, Shellfish Emulsion, Mushrooms - This was a truly unique dish served in an equally unique plate (proudly sourced by Jae in Japan). If you haven’t had fatty fish fins before, this is your chance; though the menu might’ve changed by now. Nonetheless, this dish is Chef Bruce’s play on the sweet and savory trope, indulgent yet light. The perfect transition from the starters to my favorite part: the Nigiris.Ching Dee

Isaki Nigiri - At iai, Chef Bruce Ricketts presents an elegant progression of nigiri that showcases his artistry and deep respect for each ingredient. The Isaki, tender and delicate, reveals a subtle sweetness from the sea, perfectly balanced with a touch of wasabi. Ching Dee

Saba Nigiri - The Saba, cured to bring out its rich umami, offers a briny depth, while the Shima Aji delivers a pristine and buttery bite with a clean finish.Ching Dee

Chutoro Nigiri - The Chutoro, with its luscious marbling, melts in your mouth, leaving behind an indulgent richness that must be followed by a swig of their Yamazaki Iai-Ball (their version of the classic highball). The Sawara, lightly seared, adds a smoky complexity; followed by the Smoked Toro, where velvety layers of fat need very little gimmick aside from a light sprinkling of salt. Ching Dee

Sawara Nigiri - The Sawara, lightly seared, adds a smoky complexity; followed by the Smoked Toro, where velvety layers of fat need very little gimmick aside from a light sprinkling of salt.Ching Dee

Gamba Roja Nigiri - The sequence culminates with Gamba Roja, a vibrant and succulent prawn, bursting with the natural sweetness of the ocean, completing a symphony of textures and flavors on rice — which, I must say, is delicious on its own! Each piece reflects the delicate balance between tradition and innovation that defines Chef Bruce’s approach at iai.Ching Dee

- For the main event (because yes, all the previous dishes were just building up), the lamb course at iai is a refined balance of flavors. The tender lamb, rich and earthy, pairs beautifully with beet juice-marinated carrots, adding vibrant sweetness. Walnuts bring a satisfying crunch, while the tart ume(boshi) sauce cuts through the richness. Though I must admit, at this point of the meal, I was already testing the limits of my mortal stomach. I’m not complaining at all, far from it. I’m just saying that if you’re planning to enjoy the full Sushi Omakase dinner, maybe just have a light lunch or skip it altogether. Ching Dee

Olive Oil Cake, Ginger Sabayon, Fennel Crumble, Roasted Melon Ice Cream, Shan Lin Xi Gelée - Olive Oil Cake, Ginger Sabayon, Fennel Crumble, Roasted Melon Ice Cream, Shan Lin Xi GeléeChing Dee

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IAI Manila | Ground Floor, The Montane, 8th Avenue corner 35th Street, BGC, Taguig City | Reservations: www.iaimanila.com/reservations | Open Tuesday to Sunday, 6pm to 10pm | IG: @iai.manila.

Photography by Ching Dee