RECAP: The Best Menswear Fashion Week Shows Of F/W ’24

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RECAP: The Best Menswear Fashion Week Shows Of F/W ’24

Randz Manucom

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Updated Jan 23, 2024 06:40 PM PHT

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Fendi’s Ultra-Modern Show


Fendi’s take on the season dabbled in the pursuit of the great outdoors while taking cues from some city swagger. Out comes a sold mix palettes of peat and granite, burnt umber, coal and forest green, bright swathes of cornflower and denim blues, cherry, grass green, canary yellow and cloud gray all flourish in contrast or tone-on-tone on various pieces such as Wellingtons and hiking socks, flat-front checked skorts or classic trousers, outerwear shapes, and color-blocked knitwear. The collection is for the modern sensible man filled with multiple hobbies but would like to look great while doing any of them.



Included in the show are collaborations with Beijing, Los Angeles and Rome-based architecture studio Ma Yansong/MAD Architects who had their take on the Peekaboo ISeeU. Also in the show is the handheld FENDI x DEVIALET Mania portable handheld speaker.


Louis Vuitton Takes Virginia to Paris


Set at the Jardin d'Acclimatation in Paris, France, Louis Vuitton with Pharrell Williams showed their third collection, taking inspiration from Virginia, where he is originally from. The desert backdrop and indigenous performers were hints of the collection yet to come: Western Americana-inspired with that Louis Vuitton luxury slant. Out comesDamier denim suits, cowboy-inspired cowprints and hats, ostrich and cowboy leather boots, and lots of fringe. Many surprises in the show include a shoe collaboration with Timberland and monogram bags huge enough to be carried in pushcarts.



The Louis Vuitton Speedy bags are having a defining moment with Pharrell, too, in new colorways to covet. The new partnership is hitting its stride more and more season after season.

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Kenzo and Nigo Make a New Bold Statement


The Kenzo fashion show, held at France's Bibliothèque Nationale Richelieu site, showcased a collection by designer Nigo that seamlessly blended diverse cultural references. Despite the primary influence of Paris and Tokyo, the collection ventured into uncharted territories, drawing inspiration from global sources such as Babylon, Vienna, Rome, and Carthage, symbolized on the venue's roof. Nigo incorporated adaptations of tatami mat prints and karakusa patterns from Japan, as well as explorer-inspired wear like shearling mittens and aviators. School uniforms, particularly Nigo's own student wardrobe, served as another reference point, with collarless blazers and duffle coats featuring Kenzo-themed buttons and tatami check jacquard.



The women's collection displayed a shift towards a more conventionally feminine style, with standout pieces including rib-knit mini-dresses and tatami print dresses cinched by wide leather belts. The overall presentation showcased Nigo's evolution with this very much punctuated collection yet.


Loewe is Genius at its Finest


Jonathan Anderson's Fall Men's Loewe show was a captivating exploration of contemporary consciousness, skillfully blending playfulness, complexity, and philosophy. Collaborating with American artist Richard Hawkins, the event featured Hawkins' layered paintings of young men alongside arched video installations reminiscent of stained glass windows. Anderson grappled with the impact of social media, describing it as the 'algorithm of masculinity' and acknowledging its inescapable influence. The collection showcased Anderson's signature luxurious Loewe pieces, including erotically-charged leather, shearling, suede, and crafty knits. The genius of Anderson's styling shone through in the visual isolation and proportions, incorporating suggestive elements like unbuckled half-belts and fused garments. Despite the apparent haste and neo-grunge aesthetic, the presentation was carefully curated for a camera-ready street style moment.



The soundtrack added layers of meaning with interviews about Sean Penn and Justin Bieber, emphasizing themes of heroes, bad boys, and the global impact of the American Dream, now intertwined with the internet as the defining factor in today's interconnected world.


Dior Takes on Couture Eveningwear for Men


Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior Men’s took inspiration from the work of former British Royal Ballet dancer Colin Jones which included a photojournalistic story of Rudolf Nureyev—Kim’s uncle. Jones showcased a blend of daywear and conceptual ballet-studio shorts suits, incorporating slim tailoring, wide-legged shorts suits, ballet-pump inspired shoes, and side-knotted turbans.

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While staying true to the guidelines set during his five-year tenure at Dior, Jones expanded into opulent men's evening wear, presenting Nureyev-inspired kimonos, lavishly embellished tunics, crocodile tops, and extravagant made-to-order pieces, including silver embellished toile-de-jouy patterned looks and diamond-adorned ensembles. This move reflects Jones's pragmatic approach and sets the stage for these luxurious pieces to be worn by men at night and beyond.


Gucci’s New Vision is Here


Sabato De Sarno unveiled his captivating debut vision for Gucci's menswear at Milan Fashion Week Men's, showcasing a clear interpretation of the Creative Director's 'Ancora' manifesto, which has shaped his work at the iconic fashion house. Ancora, meaning 'again' in Italian, represents a narrative of rediscovery expressed through joy. The debut menswear collection at Milan's Fonderia Carlo Macchi featured neutral suits with broader structures, leather gloves, and bags in the signature Gucci Rosso color. The Rosso hue played a central role in shiny leather jackets, fine jacquard workwear shirts, and various leather goods.





The collection showcased a blend of sophisticated, well-tailored formal shapes and exploratory, fantastical silhouettes, such as overcoats with crystal studs and feathered finishes. The finale riffed on the traditional black-and-white tuxedo, featuring asymmetrical ties, double-breasted blazers, and dark pants. De Sarno's strategic design approach considered both sales projections and creative liberty, catering to Gucci's loyal clientele while also appealing to bolder fashion enthusiasts.


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