Nahia Lloren (second from the left) dressed in full DIY pre-colonial attire in public with friends. Photo from Nahia Lloren MANILA —  In today’s fast-changing fashion scene where people compete to hop on the latest trends, some are looking back at history to revive a long-forgotten style -- the pre-colonial Filipino clothing.

The revival of traditional clothing is part of a broader cultural movement seen across Asia. For example, China’s Hanfu movement and Vietnam’s Viet Phuc movement gained widespread attention in 2022.

In the Philippines, Nahia Lloren, better known as @nahiadiwata on TikTok, is leading this effort by creating content that highlights pre-colonial fashion, history, and culture.

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Lloren’s fascination with traditional clothing began in childhood and deepened during college when she studied pre-colonial history. 

In 2020, she found an inspiration from a Facebook page showcasing Visayan fashion and a photoshoot featuring a Cebuana in pre-colonial attire. As a Visayan herself, Lloren felt a personal connection and decided to join the movement.

Drawing on her background as a fashion design graduate, Lloren started creating her own pre-colonial attire.

MORE THAN JUST CLOTHES

Reviving pre-colonial fashion goes beyond simply wearing ancestral attire — it involves extensive research, dedication, and resourcefulness.

For Lloren, one of the biggest challenges is finding reliable sources.

“Majority of first-hand sources are in Spanish and Chinese which require me to Google Translate as best as I can. Other times, some descriptions of the attires are vague which makes me struggle to conceptualize how the garment would’ve looked or worn,” she explained.

To overcome this, she reads Spanish records from the 16th and 17th centuries, Spanish-Visayan dictionaries, and academic research from Southeast Asia. She also cross-references garments from neighboring cultures like the Kebaya, Baju Kurung, and Hanfu.

Sourcing materials poses another hurdle. Many fabrics, such as tapis and patadyong, are sourced from Visayas and Mindanao, while others are purchased online. 

Nahia Lloren

For designs that aren’t commercially available, Lloren relies on her skills as a fashion design graduate to create them herself.

“For some garments, I had to sew them myself because nobody manufactures pre-colonial lowland clothing anymore,” she added.

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STANDING OUT

In 2022, Lloren shared a video of herself and friends wearing pre-colonial clothing in public which garnered over 600,000 views on TikTok. The reactions were mixed, but she was met with more curiosity and support overall.

“Some are amazed, others are surprised because it’s not something commonly seen in the Philippines,” she noted.

Lloren has publicly worn full pre-colonial clothing a few times now, including the Pride March in 2024. She finds the experience more enjoyable when done with a group.

However, not everyone is receptive to Lloren’s advocacy. Lloren revealed that some critics, unfortunately including fellow Filipinos, accuse her of “going backward” or claim she should be grateful to Spanish and American influences for “civilizing” Philippine culture. 

Others accuse her of copying neighboring Southeast Asian countries.

“Our records acknowledge how similar we are to them back then... We have centuries of diplomacy and trade and share heritage," she explained.

While Lloren presents evidence to address misconceptions, she also chooses her battles wisely. 

“For others, I simply ignore and block… I don't think that I'll be able to convince them or change their mind," she said.

REPRESENTING FILIPINO ANCIENT CULTURE

Public historian Michael "Xiao" Chua supports the movement, emphasizing that reviving ancient culture highlights the creativity of our ancestors and challenges the colonial misconception that ancient Filipinos were barbaric.

“Although you cannot totally recreate the past, that is not the point. The point is that we see ourselves as a continuation of our ancestors’ culture,” he said.

However, he recommended avoiding the term “pre-colonial” saying: “When we use it, we privilege the colonial. I suggest [using the term] ‘ancient Filipino’ or [to] call them ‘of our ancestors’.”

Moreover, Chua cautioned against misrepresentation, particularly when the revival is done solely for “profit than to pay tribute to our ancestors”.

Chua also warned against nativism—the belief that only pre-colonial culture is ‘authentic’ Filipino culture.

“[W]hatever culture we have now after colonialism is still Philippine culture,” he stressed.

“We can look at these modern takes on our early clothing as a way of telling people that culture is dynamic and can change over time,” he added.

To avoid such issues, Chua recommends consulting historians and anthropologists, as well as conducting thorough research.

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'ONE STEP AT A TIME'

While Lloren admits the advocacy is time-consuming and costly, she believes it’s a worthwhile effort.

“As it is a niche market, it will require a lot of funding for clothing and jewelry. And if you are also DIY-ing, it requires time and research,” she said.

For those interested in joining the movement, Lloren advises starting with research and equipping themselves with knowledge.

She also suggests connecting with like-minded individuals and joining a community for mutual support.

Lloren far left) with two fellow advocates of pre-colonial fashion revival.“Take it slowly, one step at a time,” Lloren recommended.

Looking ahead, Lloren hopes to see greater awareness and interest in pre-colonial fashion and culture, as well as the growth of the movement. She aspires for the cause to empower indigenous communities.

Despite the challenges, Lloren remains inspired by the impact her work has on others.

“It gave me a newfound appreciation of my ancestors’ culture… I have a long way to go, I still have a lot to do,” she said.

-- BY HANNAH ALISWAG, ABS-CBN News Digital Intern