The sweetness of fresh seafood from the lovely coastal town of Cantabria is served as thoughtful dishes in this very cozy and elegant restaurant on the top floor of Westin Manila in the Ortigas business district. 

A year in, Cantabria brings the charm of northern Spain’s coast to a stylish Spanish restaurant in Ortigas | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

Chef Chele Gonzalez, who hails from the picturesque area in northern Spain, jovially welcomed media guests recently for a taste of his home, for new additions to the menu, and to introduce its new chef de cuisine. 

Cantabria by Chef Chele Gonzalez is a year-old fine casual Spanish restaurant serving progressive cuisine in which the foundations of tradition are palpable but with modern techniques applied, elevated flavors, and a visually appealing presentation. It's a sensorial experience where Chef Gonzalez's food memories while growing up become the inspiration of the satisfying dishes he created for the establishment.

Chef Gonzalez explained that Cantabria is a neighboring region of the Basque Country, which has San Sebastian as its capital and is a world-famous gastronomic hub with Michelin-starred chefs.  

"In terms of the weather, geography, seafood, and ingredients, it is the same as Cantabria although the Basque Country has a different approach to cooking that is fantastic," noted Chef Gonzalez. "But I feel that as a person coming from Cantabria, which is not known enough, and if I have to do a Spanish restaurant, it has to be unique and with personality.

Cantabria highlights the rich diversity of Spanish cuisine with dishes like the Rodaballo a la Brasa (grilled wild turbot) | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

"There are so many themes in Spanish cuisine but people will always just want to have their paella and tapas. But it's much more than that. Cantabria showcases the diversity of the Spanish cuisine, where I came from, and what makes my roots different from all the other places. And this is meant to really connect who I am with people. I believe that a restaurant, after all, is an extension of one's self."

Meanwhile, Chef Álvaro Romero-abreu Raya who hails from Cadíz, a province in southern Spain, shares something special and in common with Chef Chele. Chef Álvaro has worked at Mugaritz where Chef Chele once worked, too. Mugaritz is a fine dining restaurant in the northern Spain considered as among the best in the world and famous for its two Michelin stars. 

Chef Raya is a welcome presence in furthering the delightful culinary offerings of Cantabria. His work in Research and Development at Mugaritz will surely boost the excitement of dining in this outlet. With the expertise and vision of Chef Chele and the training of Chef Raya, expect a vibrant synergy that puts Cantabria as the newest gastronomic must-visit place in the metro. 

Like Chef Gonzalez whose culinary interest was inspired by his mother in their home kitchen, Chef Raya also recalled spending afternoons learning how to cook from his grandmother and parents. 

Chef Álvaro Romero-abreu Raya, the new chef de cuisine with impressive culinary experience | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

Love letter to home

Prior to his settling in Manila, Chef Chele has worked in the best restaurants in the world such as Arzak, El Bulli, Nerua-Guggenheim, and Mugaritz. Today, he is a successful chef and co-owner, and owner of quality dining concepts Gallery by Chele, Asador Alfonso, Deli by Chele, Chef Chele's Kitchen, and consultancy firm Adviche F&B Solutions.

"I feel there isn't much innovation needed for this restaurant. It's really being honest to the cuisine where I came from," he said. "But I am also known for doing progression. So, I would say Cantabria is about heritage cuisine elevated to fine dining with very high quality ingredients." 

Already, with Chef Álvaro and Chef Chele working very closely, Spanish progressive cuisine becomes even more distinct at Cantabria. For instance, the Cantabria Set Menu includes a new offering Tiradito de Atun y Gazpacho, which  has a Japanese Nikkei influence evident in the thin, fresh slices of fish in Andalusian gazpacho with pickles and confit tomato.

“We have a lot of experiences to offer in different ways,” Chef Álvaro observed. “There’s something for everyone. We’ve created a menu that can make people feel like they’re staying in Spain without staying in Spain. I feel that, too. I feel like I’m at home.”

Tartaleta de Ikura y Wagyu | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

"Mama's here'

At the tasting with media guests, Chef Gonzalez presented the new dishes to expect at Cantabria. First served were appetizers that immediately presented the bountiful seafood in the coastal area of Cantabria. The Ostra Manzana y Lima-Limon, which had plump oysters flown from Cantabria with a sour refreshing apple foam reminiscent of white sea crest, and lemon-lime sorbet. 

Ostra Manzana y Lima-Limon | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

The Tosta de Ensaladilla de Gambas is a refreshing carrot salad with mashed potatoes, and mildly sweet and firm tiger prawns. 

Tosta de Ensaladilla de Gambas | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

The Tartaleta de Ikura y Wagyu, a favorite among patrons just got a more luxurious take with ikura (salmon roe) tartalets and truffle egg yolk alongside its Wagyu tartar. Tortilla Crujiente is a bite-sized fiesta in the form of panipuri filled with caramelized onion and egg foam

Tortilla Crujiente | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

For the entrantes, Tartar de Salmon Con Vieras y Gazpachuelo de Jalapeños y Coco is comforting with salmon tartar with torched scallops, sour jalapeno emulsion and coconut cream. 

The Guiso de Maganos en su Tinta con Patatas en Texturas is a dish that, says Chef Gonzalez is among his favorite dishes prepared by his mother. And understandably so: the silky texture of the baby squid ink stew, the tenderness of the squid itself, and the soft potato textures conveys a very comforting mouth feel.

Tartar de Salmon con Vieras y Gazpachuelo de Jalapeños y Coco | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

"How do you find it?" Chef Chele asked this writer.

"Beautifully made and delicious." 

Chef Chele lets out a smile while beaming with pride, "That's Mama. That's definitely Mama."

Guiso de Maganos en su Tinta con Patatas en Texturas | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

The segundos becomes an even heartier affair with Rodaballo a La Brasa or grilled turbot with green herbs salads. The flat fish, which has its pair of eyes on one side of its head, can be found mainly in the European coast. Due to its rarity, it is a pricey delicacy in fine dining restaurants in Spain and other bordering parts. It is appreciated for its guilt-free buttery taste because of its healthy unsaturated fat and lean protein.

Worthy of a quiet applause is the very tender Jarrete de Ternera or slow-cooked veal shank, baked in demi-glace, served with mashed potatoes and vegetables. 

Jarrete de Ternera | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

And what's a good Spanish meal without the postres or desserts? Besides its seafood, the Cantabria region is also famous for its dairy products, especially its butter, which has a very creamy texture and delicate fragrance. 

Sobao Pasiego is Cantabria's delicacy butter cake—if there's a pasalubong from Cantabria, this would be it, said Chef Chele— that was served at the tasting with berries coulis and cheese ice cream. The luscious cake was soaked in milk, which made its texture delictably moist and spongy. 

Sobao Pasiego | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel A heavier ending was the Chocolate, Calabaza y Pistacho created by Chef Álvaro that one surmises may have been inspired from the trending pistachio cake craze here. It is a very indulgent hot chocolate soufflé a la minute, calabaza-vanilla toffee, and pistachio ice cream—definitely, a treat for hardcore chocolate lovers. 

Chocolate, Calabaza y Pistacho | Photo: Westin Manila Hotel

Cantabria set menus

For first-time guests who want a primer on the Cantabria gourmet experience, the restaurant's set menus are recommended. For lunch specials, it's choice of two- (Php1,000++) or three- (Php1,350++) courses. A special five-course set menu is available for lunch and dinner and comes with a glass of a signature cocktail. These special menus consist of signature dishes as well as new ones that are introduced according to the seasons. Booking is required.  

Cantabria is located at the rooftop level of The Westin Manila, San Miguel Avenue corner Lourdes Drive, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong. For reservations and inquiries, visit www.cantabriamanila.com. Follow @cantabria.manila and @westinmanilahotel on Facebook and Instagram for the latest updates and announcements