This Cozy Restaurant Serves Fresh Local Seafood At Reasonable Prices With A Side Of Nostalgia | ABS-CBN

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This Cozy Restaurant Serves Fresh Local Seafood At Reasonable Prices With A Side Of Nostalgia

This Cozy Restaurant Serves Fresh Local Seafood At Reasonable Prices With A Side Of Nostalgia

Ching Dee

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Updated Apr 03, 2025 01:36 PM PHT

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I finally made it to Leo Sea House and now I’m kicking myself for not going sooner.

Tucked away in a quiet street in Marikina, Leo Sea House doesn’t call attention to itself. No sign out front (big or small, nothing at all), just a huge window with a deep green frame and stained glass accents; at night, a warm glow that spills onto the street. It used to be a sari-sari store, and it still has that lived-in charm. 

This seafood spot is a real hidden gem | Photo: Leo Sea House on Instagram

Inside, it’s quaint and cozy: four bar seats downstairs facing the open kitchen, three tables for two and a little balcony upstairs. It feels more like visiting someone’s home than eating out. And maybe that’s the point.

The new seafood-forward menu by Chef Francis Lacson is a love letter to his home province of Capiz and to childhood summers lived just a short walk from the beach. I didn’t grow up in Panay Island, but something about the way the dishes were crafted stirred something familiar. It was my first time at Leo Sea House, but the food felt like a memory I didn’t know I had.

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Chef Francis Lacson | Photo: Ching Dee

I started with the Scallop Siomai, filled with soft scallop meat and tenga ng daga (wood ear mushrooms). It came with a house-made chili-mansi dip that added just the right zing—unexpectedly delicate, but bold. 

Scallop Siomai | Photo: Ching Dee

The Monay arrived next: soft, warm bread that you slather with latik butter drizzled with kape honey. I could’ve stopped there and gone home happy. We were advised to keep one piece of bread to go with the next course. Despite my lack of self-control, I obliged. 

Monay | Photo: Ching Dee

Then came the Gotong Dagat—clams, mussels, and fish offals in an umami-rich patis-mansi broth that was deep, briny, and strangely comforting. And they were right, the bread did go well with this soup course. 

Gotong Dagat | Photo: Ching Dee

Not being a big fan of bamboo shoots, Paklay was quite a surprise. The salad course featured shredded bamboo shoots, squid, and seaweed—earthy and oceanic all at once. It reminded me that innovation doesn’t have to be loud; it just has to be thoughtful.

Paklay | Photo: Ching Dee

The Lukon course might’ve been my favorite with its plump tiger prawn over silky hand-made handkerchief noodles, dressed a la palabok with crushed fish skin chicharon. It was rich, bright, and balanced, the kind of dish that makes you keep coming back for more. It tasted clean and fresh but you can still appreciate how it reminded you of the simple comforts of the palabok from your favorite carinderia or canteen. 

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Lukon | Photo: Ching Dee

The Fish Humba, made with tanigue and topped with pickled cucumber ribbons, was another standout. I grew up with pork humba, but this seafood version felt lighter, more modern, yet still rooted in something familiar. 

Fish Humba | Photo: Ching Dee

After a quick palate cleanser of house-made Nata de Coconut Sherbet—cool and refreshing — the dessert course was served. It was Chef Francis’ version of a classic Capiznon kakanin (rice cake) called Inday-Inday. His take featured little balls of ube inday-inday served with palitaw ice cream (which could’ve easily been a dessert course of its own) and chewy coco macaroons. A sweet finish to a menu that felt deeply personal.

Nata de Coconut Sherbet | Photo: Ching Dee

Chef Francis Lacson is known for his work at Café Mabini and Francesco’s, but this menu feels different—more intimate. He admitted Leo Sea House is more like his playground or laboratory where he can experiment and push the boundaries of his own creativity. The menu was nostalgic without being old-fashioned, refined but not intimidating. And Leo Sea House? It’s the kind of place you want to keep to yourself, but can’t help telling everyone about.

It was my first time there, but I already know it won’t be my last.

Chef Francis Lacson with his crew at Leo Sea House | Photo: Ching Dee

Leo Sea House is located at 339 E dela Paz Street, Santo Nino, Marikina City | Facebook and Instagram: @leoseahouse | Open Wednesday to Sundays 

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