Vlad Bunoan

Article (news)

Helm

Jeeves De Veyra

<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762502619596HELM - DOOR.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Helm By Josh Boutwood is located at The Shops at Ayala Triangle Gardens, Makati City. Jeeves de Veyra</div>I dined at Helm about a month before it received its Michelin stars. I happened to run into some folks from The Bistro Group and joked, “Should I congratulate you now?”Even when Helm was at its previous location at the Arya Residences in Bonifacio Global City, it has been one of the most in-demand seats in Metro Manila. From galaxies far far away, the wizarding world, and culinary creations of color, Helm’s menu is Chef Josh Boutwood at the peak of his creativity where he packs whimsy, art, and flavor onto playful plates.The experience begins even before you step into the restaurant. Upon making a reservation, guests are asked to provide details — from dietary restrictions to whether the dinner is for a special occasion.Seatings start at 6 p.m. but for those who come early, you get to wait at the balcony with the backdrop of the Makati Central Business District.Helm is as special as you would make it. On one side, there was a couple dressed to the nines celebrating their anniversary. Right in front were diners in shorts and T-shirts geeking out about the food. For those who’d think this would be an intimidating experience, Helm’s definition of “fine dining” is far from that stuffy misconception.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762502690313JOSH - Cover.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>The best seats in the house. Jeeves de Veyra</div>There are tables on the periphery of the minimalist space for small groups, but I’d say the best seats in the house are in the center tables where the line between the kitchen staff and guests blur.Chef Josh is a genial host welcoming all the diners as they sat down, greeting couples a happy anniversary or a happy birthday. He doesn’t even hog the spotlight as he’s just happy to let team members interact with guests. Helm’s team, including Chef Josh, double as servers who seem to have psychic abilities, being able to anticipate guests’ needs. The goblets of water are unobtrusively filled even before you notice you need a refill. Speaking of which, take a moment to get to know the team as there are future culinary rockstars in that room.  For this iteration of the monochromatic series, this is an interpretation of color with food.The appetizers are really a set of amuse bouche, four bites to whet the appetite. While not necessarily cohesive to the monochromatic theme, each amuse-bouche is a showcase of Chef Josh’s familiarity with different cuisines and his effortless way of blending them through technique.The hamachi comes with crispy nori and ginger gel, a bougie buchi that is a delight to bite into with hot lobster bisque spurting out.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762502905637APPETIZER - Beef Tallow CHicharon.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Wagyu Tartare and Beef Tallow Chicharon. Jeeves de VeyraThere’s a Wagyu tartare with horseradish that’s spread on beef tallow chicharon.</div><div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762502943417APPETIZER - crisp biscuit shell.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Foie Gras and Mushroom. Jeeves de Veyra</div>But my favorite bite was the mix of foie gras and mushroom and what seemed to be cracklingly bitter wheat cracker.Then it was on to the mains.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503153119MAIN - PURPLE.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Purple. Jeeves de Veyra</div>Purple featured radicchio slaw on top of tuna. I thought that the Argentinian Zuccardi that was paired with it was a bit flat on its own, but sipped alongside the dish, it balanced the heat from the sesame leche de tigre and the brightness of the tamarind vinegar.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503194858MAIN - BLUE - Spirulina.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Blue. Jeeves de Veyra</div>The blue from this dish comes from the soft-as-a-cloud spirulina chawan mushi that covered the braised pulpo. <div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503227118MAIN - Orange.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Orange. Jeeves de Veyra</div>The orange course combined the crunch of lavash and the flaky salmon that just broke apart at first touch. Different contrasting flavors with a rich aligue sauce with a bed of squash curry puree spiked with Sichuan peppercorns. Best to have everything together in one bite.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503265458MAIN - BREAD COURSE.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Bread. Jeeves de Veyra</div>The bread course was a way for the chef to rave about his baking team who bake about 500 loaves of bread that’s serve across all the Bistro Elite restaurants. A slice of sourdough and what seemed like a cruffin – a croissant muffin hybrid laced with a sourdough starter syrup taken from the previous batches of bread are best torn apart with your hands to try out with a potent extra virgin olive oil or the in-house made dabs of butter on the side.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503298877MAIN - GREENS.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Green. Jeeves de Veyra</div>After that intermission, the mains resume with a plate of green. Paired with a lively crisp Riesling, tubes of pickled radish with slight bitter notes of watercress with a spicy curry-like green chili sauce on top buttery sea bass made this a complex yet balanced dish.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503335337MAIN - BROWN.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Brown. Jeeves de Veyra</div>The brown course was quail cooked two ways — butter-basted quail breast with fregula and chanterelle mushroom and roasted leg dressed with shoyu koji. The Occhipinti SP68 was an unusual wine choice with its smoky tobacco notes.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503372500MAIN - RED.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Red. Jeeves de Veyra</div>The Gago Spanish Tinto de Taro was another unusual wine with mushroom oaky notes. With beetroot multiple ways and A5 Wagyu coloring the plate red, a side dipping sauce of fermented vegetables made this meat course shine.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503444438YELLOW.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Yellow. Jeeves de Veyra</div>Mango, passion fruit, and a chard of saffron meringue made this a bright yellow dessert. A little sour, a little sweet, but a grand ending to this meal.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503482720POST DESSERT - Coffee and Caramel.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Coffee and Caramel. Jeeves de Veyra</div>At Chef Josh’s first version of his Test Kitchen, he recalled that they often served additional courses that weren’t on the menu. For this one, he had a second dessert of black rice ice cream with burnt caramel with steaming hot coffee brewed from Sultan Kudarat beans. Petit-fours of a honey sable with cream filling, a chocolate pillow, and a barquillos-shelled hazelnut praline were nice bites to finally end the meal. I’m generally not a fan of tasting menus as I end up craving for fast food after because of servings you can sniff. But for this one, I was stuffed. This was a rare tasting menu where the quantity matched the quality of the food. For a massive 8+ course dinner, the servings are generous so come hungry.I appreciated the unusual wine choices that really went well with dishes they were paired with. The use of quail and the fermented elements that were probably successful experiments from The Test Kitchen were personal highlights of this menu.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/1762503574800CHEFS - Josh and Team 2.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Chef Josh Boutwood and his team at Helm. Jeeves de Veyra</div>If you ask me if Helm deserves its reputation, its stars, and the accolades, the best way I’d explain it is that there are a number of restaurants that have one or more of those elements I’ve raved about — chef-driven, consistency, food, innovation and invention, creative menu, plating and presentation, technique, premium ingredients, overall guest experience, ambiance, engagement, service, sommelier-driven wine program, among others.But for a restaurant to bring all of those together and more in one cohesive whole? A very select few. Helm passes this test with flying colors.There are many chefs who can make exceptional food. For Helm, it’s not just food but special somethings that come together to imprint a memory. In my opinion, that’s what makes Helm worth more than just a detour.As it was, Helm is one of those aspirational restaurants reserved for very special occasions with a manageable waiting list. As of this writing, I heard one has to wait until next year for a seat. Best plan way ahead and reserve now. Helm rotates its offer every quarter so this monochrome menu may not be available then.<div> </div><div>Helm By Josh Boutwood is located on the third floor, Tower 2, The Shops at Ayala Triangle Gardens, Makati City and is open from Tuesday to Sunday. Reservations required. </div>

Long before earning its two Michelin stars, Helm was already setting the standard for what modern fine dining in the Philippines could be. Every plate, gesture, and flavor make it clear -- the stars weren’t just awarded but were earned.

Long before earning its two Michelin stars, Helm was already setting the standard for what modern fine dining in the Philippines could be. Every plate, gesture, and flavor make it clear -- the stars weren’t just awarded but were earned.

At Helm, every detail explains why 2 Michelin stars feel just right

News

Entertainment

Lifestyle

Sports

Metro.Style

More

Traffic

Manila

Horoscope

Food and Travel

At Helm, every detail explains why 2 Michelin stars feel just right

Jeeves De Veyra

Published Nov 07, 2025 04:22 PM PHT

Read More:

Helm

Josh Boutwood

Bistro Group

Bistro Elite

Ayala Triangle Gardens

ABSnews

ABS-CBN is the leading media and entertainment company in the Philippines, offering quality content across TV, radio, digital, and film. Committed to public service and promoting Filipino values, ABS-CBN continues to inspire and connect audiences worldwide.

Corporate

Investors

Governance

International Distribution

Corporate

Governance

Investors

International Distribution

NPC Seal of Registration

Privacy Policy

AI Policy

Terms of Service

Advertise with Us

© 2026 ABS-CBN Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

NPC Seal of Registration

Privacy Policy

Terms of Service

AI Policy

Advertise with Us

© 2026 ABS-CBN Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

NPC Seal of Registration

Privacy Policy

Terms of Service

AI Policy

Advertise with Us

© 2026 ABS-CBN Corporation. All Rights Reserved.