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ABS-CBN meets official papal tailor in Rome

ABS-CBN meets official papal tailor in Rome

Zen Hernandez,

ABS-CBN News

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From Pope Pius IX to Pope Francis, nearly every Roman Pontiff has donned garments stitched within the walls of Gammarelli Sartoria Per Ecclesiastici. Zen Hernandez, ABS-CBN News

ROME, Italy — Just a few steps from the iconic Pantheon of Rome, tucked away in a quiet corner of the Piazza di Santa Chiara, is another equally iconic and historical institution in Rome - a shop called Gammarelli Sartoria Per Ecclesiastici.

On their walls are photos of their most famous clients. From Pope Pius IX to Pope Francis, nearly every Roman Pontiff has donned garments stitched within its walls.

Gammarelli’s role as official papal tailor started in 1798, when its founder Giovanni Antonio Gammarelli officially entered service with the Roman clergy.

“We have served all the popes, at least since the beginning of the 20th century,” says Lorenzo Gammareli, one of the current owners from the sixth generation of the Gammarelli family. 

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While modest, its storefront usually serves like a historical display of elaborate cassocks, vestments and mantles used by popes and cardinals. But this time, it displays a lone white “zucchetto.” 



“This is a skull cap in the size of Pope Francis. We made this special window for respect and mourning for the death of the Holy Father,” Gammarelli explains. 

Known for his frugality, Pope Francis was one of Gammareli’s easiest clients as the late Supreme Pontiff only wanted a simple vestment with no frills. 

“As soon as he was elected we went there to take all the measurements…we made many, many others. I think 3 or 4 each year,” he adds.

CONCLAVE

Traditionally, Gammarelli would also prepare new vestments for the papal conclave. 

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But Lorenzo says this time, the Vatican decided to use cassocks from previous elections.

“Usually we make 3 vestments hoping that one would fit the new pope, because we don’t know who it would be in advance obviously…This time we didn’t because the Vatican informed us that they already have everything they need,” he explains.

The papal conclave has been set to begin on May 7. It will begin with a Eucharistic celebration in the morning, to be presided by the Dean of the College of Cardinals, Cardinal Giovanni Battista Re.

In the afternoon, the Cardinal electors will proceed in a solemn procession to the Sistine Chapel, where the conclave hopes to elect the 267th Bishop of Rome.

The cardinals use smoke from the Sistine Chapel chimney, to signal to the world whether any round of voting has been decisive or not.

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“Tatanungin ka muna, do you accept? Kahit may na-elect na, pag hindi tinanggap, black smoke pa rin yan…Pag you say yes, white smoke,” says Fr. Gregory Gaston, rector of the Pontificio Collegio Filipinno in Rome.

(They’ll ask you first, ‘Do you accept?’ Even if someone has already been elected, if he doesn’t accept, it’s still black smoke… If you say yes, then it’s white smoke.) 

“So pagtanggap, pupunta na siya dun sa praying room, magdadasal…and then iisipin niya rin kung anong pangalan niya. Kasi for example Jorge Mario Bergoglio, Francis yung pinili niya ‘no, very unique kasi usually mga ancient saints,” he continues.

(Upon accepting, he goes to the praying room to pray… and then he also thinks about what name he’ll take. For example, Jorge Mario Bergoglio chose Francis, which was very unique because usually the names come from ancient saints.)

“And mahalaga din in a way, for the logistics, pupunta siya dun sa room kung saan nakasabit ibat-ibang sizes ng white sutana. May naka-ready…kasi nga nakaitim yung cardinals na may pulang sash, si Pope lang ang nakaputi,” Fr. Gaston went on.

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(And it’s also important, in a way, for logistics, he goes to the room where various sizes of white cassocks are hanging. One is already prepared… because the cardinals wear black with a red sash, but only the Pope wears white.) 

After this, the ceremony for the formal announcement will begin. Bells from the Vatican, all of Rome and around the world, will ring to signify the election of a new pope.

“Maybe in one hour, something like that, lalabas si pope dun sa pinaka balkon ng St. Peter’s Basilica, dun sa gitna…Yung official na announcement in Latin “annuntio vobis gaudium magnum,” I announce to you a great joy, “Habemus Papam, we have a pope,” Fr. Gaston says.

(Maybe in one hour, something like that, the pope will come out onto the central balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica… That’s where the official announcement is made in Latin: ‘Annuntio vobis gaudium magnum,’ I announce to you a great joy, ‘Habemus Papam,’ we have a pope.)

The new pope will then give his first papal address and apostolic blessing through the “Urbi et Orbi” (to the city of Rome and to the world.”

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