Fil-Am chef’s restaurant makes a mark in Washington, D.C. | ABS-CBN

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Fil-Am chef’s restaurant makes a mark in Washington, D.C.

Fil-Am chef’s restaurant makes a mark in Washington, D.C.

Don Tagala,

TFC News

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Filipino restaurant “Hiraya” has been listed by food reviewers such as Eater D.C. as one of the best new restaurants in Washington, D.C.

Chef Paolo Dungca’s modern Filipino joint is also recognized as one of the best spots to eat and drink on H Street, known for its vibrant culinary scene.

“I wanted us to be known as a fun place to be," he said, "a gathering place where people could just come."

"When you wake up, you can come down for coffee, work a little bit, have lunch, and then when you want to celebrate something a bit nicer, you can go upstairs for dinner, enjoy a tasting menu, and experience Filipino hospitality.”

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The upscale second-level dining offers à la carte options, a prix fixe menu, and an eight-course tasting menu that pays homage to his Filipino roots.

The Kapampangan chef suggests starting the dining experience with Hiraya’s special soup made with celeriac (the root of turnip), Granny Smith apple, and smoked trout roe.

The tasting menu’s "pampagana" or appetizers, welcomes diners with an explosion of flavors from a variety of small dishes.

For ulam or main dishes, offerings include lechon kawali, aged ribeye adobong pula, afritadang Amish chicken leg,as well as asadong lengua (beef tongue), and aged duck confit called pato tim.

“This is a breath of fresh air for Washington, D.C," said Alan Trammell, a local. "The inclusion of a high-end Filipino restaurant adds so much texture and flavor to the culinary offerings here.”

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Another D.C. local, Tony James, meanwhile, said the restaurant "feels very homey and welcoming."

"It was chill, and I liked the vibe. It was nice to watch the kitchen prep everything—it’s been amazing," he added.

For Rome resident Thea Lim, finding Filipino restaurants of this kind in Italy is not easy. She craves a taste of home whenever she visits relatives in D.C., where she grew up.

“It’s interesting to see how they leveled up typical Filipino cuisine," she shared. "The dishes are things I wouldn’t necessarily make at home, but the flavors are very familiar. They’re vibrant and sharper, a bit more nuanced than typical Filipino home cooking.”

Chef Paolo Dungca said he is living the dream, which is why he aptly named his restaurant after a favorite childhood educational TV show called "Hiraya Manawari" — an ancient Tagalog phrase meaning “reach your dreams.”

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“It’s a popular ABS-CBN show," he said. "Growing up, we watched it every day. It means the fruit of one's hopes, dreams, and aspirations.”

Dungca added: “As a chef, I've always wanted to open my own restaurant to showcase the food I wanted to create and the journey that got me here.”

For many guests, the quality and taste of Chef Dungca’s outstanding cooking, along with the Filipino flavors and techniques used at Hiraya, could lead to another dream he hopes will come true: a Michelin star on Hiraya’s wall.

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