ILOILO -- I've been to Iloilo several times, my last being in November 2019 before the pandemic.

But every time I come to this lovely and vibrant city, there is always something new to be discovered -- its rich history, delectable cuisine, and warm-hearted locals.

Our group of Manila- and Iloilo-based media, educators, and vloggers recently embarked on food, tourism, and heritage adventures of Iloilo, Guimaras, and Bacolod last May 16-21. Our trip is a privately-organized tour in cooperation with the locals and friends from said provincial cities.

Armi Pineda (our blogger-cum-commercial and TV talent) and this writer touched down in Iloilo on May 16. Eager to begin our adventure, especially on Armi’s part being a first-timer in the city, our first stop was the Opinyon Panay office in Sta. Barbara which is conveniently close to the Iloilo International Airport. We both contribute for this community paper where media buddy Cheryl Luis-True works as content editor. From Opinyon, the three of us were quickly whisked away to the Santa Barbara Centennial Museum by simply riding the ever-reliable provincial tricycle. At the museum, the veteran and bubbly tourism officer, Irene Magallon, captivated us with tales of the town's cultural heritage. Her passion and knowledge made the museum come alive, offering a perfect introduction to Iloilo's rich history.

Gastronomic Breakthrough

Our stomachs rumbling, we headed to Breakthrough Restaurant in Villa, Iloilo City, for lunch. This celebrated restaurant is owned by the illustrious Robles family. It is my first time at Breakthrough but I already had a taste of their gustatory delights, courtesy of sister restaurant Ponsyon years back.

Mia, the charming daughter of the owners, welcomed us with a smile and shared the fascinating story behind this beloved food haven which started out as a small eatery in Jaro.

Mia treated us to an array of the finest dishes and Breakthough’s best sellers: fresh and baked talaba, various fish dishes, native fried chicken, lechon, fresh lato-lato, etc.

The shrimps and fish, straight from their tanks, is the epitome of freshness, embodying the essence of Iloilo’s rich coastal heritage. Each bite of the shrimp was a burst of the ocean’s goodness, and the fish, prepared with a delicate touch, melted in our mouths. 

The lechon was, without a doubt, some of the best I've ever tasted, with the skin perfectly crispy, and the meat, tender and flavorful. We could have eaten to our hearts delight but we decided to make room for the buko halo-halo which was truly refreshing dessert on that hot Thursday. Surprisingly, the halo-halo wasn’t that sweet making the fresh buko juice distinguishable from the rest of the ingredients.  

Further, the restaurant’s location offers a picturesque view of the sea, enhancing our dining experience with a tranquil backdrop. It’s a place where meals are savored slowly, conversations flow freely, and every visitor is made to feel like part of the family.

A staff at Glory’s Café demonstrates sala-sala, the traditional art of coffee brewing

Coffee, Heritage, and Souvenirs

After lunch, we made our way to 3rd Gen Glory's Cafe, another gem in Villa. Michael Chua, the owner, graciously introduced us to the art of sala-sala, the family’s traditional coffee brewing which they still do since 1948. 

But Sansaw, the shop’s signature drink, caught our attention. It’s a cool, refreshing drink made of calamay (muscovado sugar) and coconut milk (kakang gata)! 

Chua said he grew up with this drink and he decided to introduce it to this new generation of coffee drinkers.

Housed in the historic Avanceña Mansion, the cafe exuded charm and history. Next door, the Pasalubong Center offered a delightful array of local products, from Hablon weaves to Guimaras tultol asin. We couldn't resist buying a few items to remember our visit by.

We also passed by the famed Molo Mansion, now owned by SM. Inside, it was filled with Kultura products, which, while interesting, were different from the local crafts and foods we had hoped to find. Nevertheless, the mansion was still a beautiful spot for photos.

We then visited the construction site of the Iloilo Central Market. Mayor Jerry Treñas was on hand, assuring former vendors that their rental rates would remain the same once the market reopens in December. It was heartening to see the city investing in its future while maintaining a commitment to its community.

For dinner, we headed to Bebot's and Mila's Talabahan in Jaro. The food spread was a testament to why Iloilo is dubbed the City of Gastronomy. Armi, who isn't usually a fan of oysters, loved the baked talaba with cheese. From adobo pusit to native chicken lechon manok, every dish was a celebration of Ilonggo cuisine. 

A taste of cultural mapping and coffee breaks

Our second day began with a hearty breakfast at Park Inn by Radisson Iloilo, after which we transferred to Seda Hotel. We then joined Cheryl to her hometown, Bololacao, New Lucena, for a cultural mapping project with Panay Guimaras. We joined her in documenting the origins of New Lucena, guided by the knowledgeable Catherine Pueyo, the town's tourism officer designate. 

After a morning of mapping chore, we took a well-deserved break at 60:40 Coffee, enjoying a perfect blend of coffee paired with turon and pastas.

The brainchild of a young, visionary entrepreneur, 60:40 Coffee boasts a blend to the precise 60:40 ratio of Arabica and Robusta beans. Born during the pandemic by selling packed coffee online, 60:40 Coffee, now housed at the Amigo Mall in the bustling Iznart-Delgado Sts., sells sumptuous breakfast and offers catering services plus a coffee bar for that much-needed caffeinated touch.

Our third day was highlighted by a visit to the Manggahan Festival 2024 in Guimaras. A courtesy call to Governor JC Rahman Nava provided us with fascinating insights into the island's culture and history. He said, he makes sure that each day of the festival focused on different sectors such as coconut farming, fishing, and floriculture, ensuring that no farmer was left behind. That way, too, the diversity of Guimaras’ agriculture was on full display attracting more tourists and enhancing its reputation as a premier agri-festival.

Lunch at Makarios Farm introduced us to the unique mango pizza, a must-try for any visitor. 

Richmond Hotel Iloilo’s BizBar high-tea set, a three-tier pastry tower that was a sight to behold and good to the palate of everything Ilonggo.

Guests marvel at the famed Guimaras mango on display at Manggahan Festival 2023

 The art mural said it all: City of Love

A high tea set that celebrates everything Ilonggo

Before calling it a day, we enjoyed a delightful tea time with Nathalie Lim, the fashionista manager of Richmond Hotel, and Allan Tan the hardworking president of the Iloilo Festival Foundation Inc. (IFFI). Their passion for Iloilo was infectious, leaving us with a deeper appreciation for the city's charm and potential.

Nathalie introduced us to the culinary delights of BizBar, a three-tier pastry tower that was a sight to behold and good to the palate. The top tier featured Ube Halaya Macaroon, Dragonfruit Macaroon, Tablea Banana Eclair, and Batuan Tart. Each bite was a journey through Iloilo's rich cuisine and agricultural heritage. The macarons, filled with locally harvested crops, were vibrant and delicious.

Nathalie shared fascinating insights into the local ingredients and the pride they take in crafting everything in-house. "We are proud of this high tea set, as it celebrates everything Ilonggo," she said with a smile. And we believed her.

Iloilo City's Molo Mansion

Roaming around the imposing Iloilo Business Park, also called Megaworld by the locals, and the nearby places of interest, we realized there is more to see in and experience in Iloilo. From its vibrant festivals and delicious food to its rich cultural heritage and warm-hearted people, Iloilo truly lives up to its tagline, City of Love. The #VisitIloilo campaign encapsulates this spirit perfectly, inviting everyone to discover the heartbeats of Iloilo and experience its fun, food, and friendly atmosphere.

Our group decided that a light dinner of the famed batchoy at Ted’s at the nearby Ilolio Diversion Road would complete our journey in the City of Gastronomy -- for now. We will be back!