The new Kiwami in BGC has two new concepts: Koyo for sushi handrolls (left) and Hibachi for shared plates. Handout

MANILA -- It was in 2021 when the Standard Hospitality Group launched Kiwami at Bonifacio High Street Central in Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. Named after the Japanese word that means "ultimate" or "extreme," it houses the company's four restaurant brands -- Yabu for tonkatsu, Ippudo for ramen, Hachibei for yakitori, and Hannosuke for tendon or tempura rice bowls -- and a Hokkaido soft-serve ice cream stall.  

At the time, Kiwami was marketed as a food hall, a place where diners can enjoy a variety of dishes under one roof. But Michael Concepcion, Standard Hospitality Group's creative director, feels that the term no longer fits the curated food and beverage space -- especially after its recent facelift.

Now called Kiwami: Japanese Master Kitchens, its focus is offering a "full-service, fine casual dining experience." Applying their learnings over the past three years, Concepcion said the idea is to offer specialized dishes without losing the convenience of variety.

"When we started in 2021, we really didn't have a framework on how this concept kind of works," he told ABS-CBN News during Kiwami's recent relaunch. "So this new version is kind of an iteration of all our learnings -- everything we felt we are doing right, things that we felt like could be improved."

"We felt that the term food hall didn't do justice to what we're doing because we're not quite just a food hall -- it's actually a full-service dining experience," he added. "It's a full-service, large-format Japanese restaurant, but we've given each brand a distinct master kitchen that gives them the ability to specialize in what they do." 

Concepcion went on: "We have here a nice dining experience where it can be shared, you have variety, but you still have the ability to enjoy a very specialized product. So if you have a friend or family member who's in the mood for ramen or tonkatsu, but you want some yakitori, you're going to be able to have that now -- which I guess is novel and new because we're a very dish-specific group."

Standard Hospitality Group creative director Michael Concepcion poses for a photo inside the relaunched Kiwami in BGC. HandoutThe new Kiwami boasts of a sleek look and a slightly different layout to maximize restaurant efficiency. Instead of a bar, guests are now welcomed by a "lobby" that shows the different Japanese brands ("So we have this kind of pause before the chaos," Concepcion explained). The Hokkaido soft cream stall can now be accessed from the outside, allowing for a "grab and go" setup for customers who are only looking for dessert. 

On top of these are two new food concepts which, Concepcion noted, fill the gaps in Kiwami's lineup -- sushi and shared plates. The former is addressed by Koyo, the Standard Hospitality Group's collaboration with Chef Mark Manaloto, who has led top sushi restaurants in Chicago and New York. 

Koyo specializes in sushi handrolls, each featuring bold combinations. Must-try items here include the Ebi Katsu Creamy Crab (ebi furai, creamy crab, garlic aioli, cured quail egg yolk, and tobiko or flying fish roe), Spicy Tuna (tuna loin, chili aioli, avocado mousse, asparagus furai, and tenkasu or bits of tempura batter), and Katsu Oyster (katsu oyster, tartar, kizami wasabi, and lemon wedge), which is Concepcion's personal favorite. 

Koyo's Choice A Set (P780), which includes California Crunch, Salmon Aburi, Tuna Edamame, and Ebi Katsu Creamy Crab. Handout

Koyo's Choice B Set (P840), on the other hand, includes Katsu Oyster, Creamy Ebi, Spicy Tuna, and Scallop Aburi. Handout"Koyo is our take on sushi, basically. We felt it's the one thing that's missing from this space," Concepcion shared. "We chose this format (handroll) because we wanted to democratize [sushi] and make it accessible. You'll have handrolls as low as P160 with the best sushi rice, best nori, and the technique and the ingredients are super creative and very unique."

"We see this as a standalone concept in the near future," he continued. "Eventually we'll have a premium section that's more of the imported fish, but it was important for us to introduce the foundation first... we want this to be a brand that can really grow and be appreciated by the people." 

On the other hand, the Hibachi sharing plates are a result of the Standard Hospitality Group's partnership with Sydney-based chefs Max Smith and Douglas Barker, who are former alumni of the famed izakaya Cho Cho San. Concepcion recommends the Charcoal Chicken, which is grilled over Binchotan charcoal and served with ume kosho dressing and baby spinach, and the Seafood Fried Rice with salmon, shrimp, squid, tobiko, and XO sauce. 

"Another thing we felt missing in Kiwami was the communal-style dishes. Everyone just usually orders their own mains," he said, noting that most -- if not all -- of their Japanese dishes come in individual portions. 

Hibachi offers Japanese-style sharing plates grilled over Binchotan charcoal such as Charcoal Chicken (left, priced at P600) and Kampachi (P1,350) or yellowtail. HandoutThe new Kiwami is poised for expansion, Concepcion said, assuring diners in the south that their branch in Alabang Town Center will get the same refresh as the one in BGC. He also spoke of opening at Mall of Asia in Pasay City next year, as well as plans to set up in Ortigas.

"We're really excited that the market and the audience here has received it (Kiwami) really well," he said. "This is just one more step forward in our evolution."

"You'll start seeing Kiwami expand a bit further, and this BGC branch will be our blueprint for our next stores," he ended.